The route begins to the right of a prominent rock buttress that extends a good ways up the face. Scramble up a bit of rock until the bottom of the glacier is gained. Head up the slope (maybe 50 degrees?) for approx. 800' or so to a flat area. From here traverse right through some crevassed territory to where the face steepens towards the summit. Work your way up and right towards a prominent crevasse. Cross this to gain the final headwall. Climb this calf burning headwall for about 160m and head right at the end to the summit.
Day 01: Huaraz / Transfer Llanganuco / Trekking to Yanapaccha Moraine Camp (4800m) Camp
Private transport to km 45 of the Llanganuco valley, 3 hours walk to the camp.
Day 02: Moraine Camp / Ascend to Yanapaccha Summit (5497m) / Descend to Moraine Camp (4800m) Camp
Crossing crevasses, snow bridges, the last 150m is a beautiful wall of snow 50, 8 hours in total.
Day 03: Moraine Camp / Transfer to Huaraz
we returned along the same route, then our private bus to Huaraz.